Indian chef uses synthesis to win two Michelin stars

by Guest Mon Mar 20, 2017 11:54 am

Other great chefs have had similar ideas. Manish Mehrotra uses classic South Indian spice mixes, Gaggan Anand makes the world’s lightest idli and Srijith Gopinath puts beluga caviar on a mini-appam.

http://www.hindustantimes.com/brunch/now-is-an-exciting-time-for-south-indian-food/story-IOVEmuAemGg9UHGfhn2kfK.html

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Then, last year, Michelin awarded two stars to Campton Place, a restaurant at the Taj-owned hotel of the same name in San Francisco. I was thrilled because I have always regarded the chef Srijith Gopinath as one of the great Indian culinary stars....

When he got two stars, I had to tweet about it to draw attention to this unique achievement because the Taj publicity machine refused to give him his due. I resolved then that I would fly to San Francisco and write about him. By the time I finally planned my trip, he had won two stars for a second year running....

Like everyone else in California, Srijith focuses on the flavours of the ingredients. But he manages to give Indian spices equal importance. So his food is an unusual blend of first rate ingredients, enhanced (but not smothered) with spices. The Maine Lobster on his menu is perfectly poached in a mixture of oil and butter but it comes with an authentic Malabar curry. The Cornish hen at his restaurant is treated with a respect no Indian chef gives poultry, roasted whole and shown to guests at the table before being carved and served with a buttery tomato gravy and a chestnut khichdi.

Luxury ingredients are given a respectful but witty treatment. Golden oscietra caviar comes on a tiny appam, the foie gras is spiced and put on a sheermal, and naan dough is adopted to make a bun which is topped with Alba truffles. A square of black cod gets a cocoa-masala coat and shrikhand comes in a little tartlet.

It is hard to characterise his food. Perhaps the best way to describe it is by understanding its origins. A Malayali chef, who is adept at Western techniques, comes to California, is bowled over by the produce and reaches into his spice memory to create a new kind of Indian food.

http://www.hindustantimes.com/brunch/the-world-s-most-famous-indian-chef-you-ve-never-heard-of/story-QHH2JjuvJwGMeFLnsBlRCN.html