Camry Engine Light On - Any pointers?

by The Absolute Zero Mon Feb 13, 2012 9:21 am

85K miles car. Took it to the Auto Zone. After connecting some multimeter like instrument he says code P0135. Googled and found it is O2 Sensor problem. Now the Trac Off is ON too. The mechanic says if I fix O2 Sensor, the trac off may go away as well. Not sure what he means by that. Google says yes and no occasionally. Could these two be different problems?

Any experience about this kind of thing for you? Any pointers? TIA

by Propagandhi711 Mon Feb 13, 2012 10:25 am

what's there to worry about a couple of lights? they are just there to make the dashboard colorful. akhilaandhra peenasi sangham will excommunicate you if you start fixing such stuff....

by doofus_maximus Mon Feb 13, 2012 10:29 am

The Absolute Zero wrote:85K miles car. Took it to the Auto Zone. After connecting some multimeter like instrument he says code P0135. Googled and found it is O2 Sensor problem. Now the Trac Off is ON too. The mechanic says if I fix O2 Sensor, the trac off may go away as well. Not sure what he means by that. Google says yes and no occasionally. Could these two be different problems?

Any experience about this kind of thing for you? Any pointers? TIA

O2 sensor ...who cares about the environment unless you are Al Gore.

by The Absolute Zero Mon Feb 13, 2012 10:38 am

Propagandhi711 wrote:what's there to worry about a couple of lights? they are just there to make the dashboard colorful. akhilaandhra peenasi sangham will excommunicate you if you start fixing such stuff....

When are you starting your Ph.D in Inglis? I just cannot wait. Did you "read" a word "worry" in my post? Join a puppy kicker association. They will admit you without a fee; make sure you show the postings on CHaunties and your intending phd (passed with highest difficulty) and finally get lost.

by Propagandhi711 Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:22 am

The Absolute Zero wrote:
Propagandhi711 wrote:what's there to worry about a couple of lights? they are just there to make the dashboard colorful. akhilaandhra peenasi sangham will excommunicate you if you start fixing such stuff....

When are you starting your Ph.D in Inglis? I just cannot wait. Did you "read" a word "worry" in my post? Join a puppy kicker association. They will admit you without a fee; make sure you show the postings on CHaunties and your intending phd (passed with highest difficulty) and finally get lost.

aiyyooo kota gaariki lungi voodipoyetattu kopum vachindi...brahmanandam jeetham maro 6 rupees kattu... you went to autozone because you didnt worry about what those lights meant?

by FluteHolder Mon Feb 13, 2012 11:36 am

It might be with bad gasoline or driving lower speed for longer time (only local roads driving and no highways). When you drive only at low speeds the engine doesnot gets much heated to clear the clogs which may be removed only at driving at high speeds(mechanic told me this). There is some engine cleaner available at Autozone which might help a bit, but eventually may have to replace o2 sensor. goodluck.

by indophile Mon Feb 13, 2012 2:12 pm

Also, it could be as simple as tightening the gas cap a notch or two.

by Marathadi-Saamiyaar Tue Feb 14, 2012 7:39 am

The Absolute Zero wrote:85K miles car. Took it to the Auto Zone. After connecting some multimeter like instrument he says code P0135. Googled and found it is O2 Sensor problem. Now the Trac Off is ON too. The mechanic says if I fix O2 Sensor, the trac off may go away as well. Not sure what he means by that. Google says yes and no occasionally. Could these two be different problems?

Any experience about this kind of thing for you? Any pointers? TIA

Make sure its oil level is fine. brake fluid level is ok.

Then, change your air filter, and perhaps O2 sensor (usually 20 to 25 $) and Autozone will "loan" u the tool. U may have to cut the wires and hence have some "connectors" ($2) handy.Running with lower O2 can cause damage to the catalytic converter, and during one fine long drive (2 to 3,000 miles later) the car will stop in the middle of a desert - costing you a new engine. Of course, if you are going to drive only short distances, it is fine. Once, my check engine light could be manipulated with the temp sensor from the thermostat. But, it messed around with my idle speed. I did not/do not know fully how these are connected electronically. Once a mechanic ran an analyzer on it which said the temp gauge was the culprit but the mechanic did not believe it. Of course I changed O2 and temp sensors and still did not solve the issue - well who cared...the car ran, turned and stopped, and that was good enough.

by indophile Tue Feb 14, 2012 9:12 am

Of course, there is a very crude solution. I once had a Volvo whose oil pressure indicator light used to come on for no apparent reason (even with full oil). I just killed the light and got rid of the annoyance once and for all. The car went on and on and on for many more miles after that.

by Merlot Daruwala Wed Feb 15, 2012 9:27 am

indophile wrote:Of course, there is a very crude solution. I once had a Volvo whose oil pressure indicator light used to come on for no apparent reason (even with full oil). I just killed the light and got rid of the annoyance once and for all. The car went on and on and on for many more miles after that.

Yeah. Follow the proven Homer Simpson methodology. Use sticking plaster to hide annoying engine lights.

TAZ, you can pick up a full roll of insulating tape (in a choice of red, black or blue) for just $1. Much cheaper than getting the O2 sensor replaced, which will set you back a few hundred dollars.

by indophile Wed Feb 15, 2012 12:03 pm

It's all contextual. That Volvo had no problem going from A to B, and it did so for 8 years (I bought it used during my student days). You just don't take the little annoyances too seriously (you don't have the money for the car worries to get you anyway). Do what you yourself can do, and junk the car if the engine or transmission goes out on you. For example, I ran that car for a couple of years with shorting the wires to light up the headlights (why pay good money for a new switch!).

by Marathadi-Saamiyaar Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:13 pm

indophile wrote:It's all contextual. That Volvo had no problem going from A to B, and it did so for 8 years (I bought it used during my student days). You just don't take the little annoyances too seriously (you don't have the money for the car worries to get you anyway). Do what you yourself can do, and junk the car if the engine or transmission goes out on you. For example, I ran that car for a couple of years with shorting the wires to light up the headlights (why pay good money for a new switch!).

I once had a subaru and its oil gauge did not work - always on on empty. TO replace it was $300 (remove the dash etc.).

So I checked oil level religiously every 1000 miles as it would burn 1 QT every 1500 miles.

I went all over the country in that car - no biggie.

(O2 sensor is a little different and the consequences can be disastrous in rare cases.)

by The Absolute Zero Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:13 pm

Here is the update.

The code from the multimeter type instrument was P0135. Sensor 1 Bank 1 (Oh-2 sensor) faulty etc. Got it done and then the code was reset. But the light is back on after a few hours. Googling today morning, found that the sensor replaced was wrong one :-) Went back to mechanic and showed him what I found. He checked his diagrams on his PC and said he can do that again - Monday. Till then just ignore the dash light. Not sure if this solves the problem. The car of course runs great without any problems. Want to fix this for Cat Converter damages that could kill.

BTW the sensors sold in shops - all of them including Autozone, Auto* or whatever, come with junk sockets that may not match your vehicle though their shop computers will tell you they are an "exact" match. So in the last minute had to get another one from another shop.

If the light keeps coming on again after Monday, will probably have to rethink what to do. (planning to sell it anyway for other reasons).

For other responders - Thanks a lot. Yes one mechanic actually told me that I can use a tape to block out the light. If the problem is small then this crude way will work otherwise catalytic converter can wipe out the car and that's it.

by The Absolute Zero Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:15 pm

Here is the update.

The code from the multimeter type instrument was P0135. Sensor 1 Bank 1 (Oh-2 sensor) faulty etc. Got it done and then the code was reset. But the light is back on after a few hours. Googling today morning, found that the sensor replaced was wrong one :-) Went back to mechanic and showed him what I found. He checked his diagrams on his PC and said he can do that again - Monday. Till then just ignore the dash light. Not sure if this solves the problem. The car of course runs great without any problems. Want to fix this for Cat Converter damages that could kill.

BTW the sensors sold in shops - all of them including Autozone, Auto* or whatever, come with junk sockets that may not match your vehicle though their shop computers will tell you they are an "exact" match. So in the last minute had to get another one from another shop.

If the light keeps coming on again after Monday, will probably have to rethink what to do. (planning to sell it anyway for other reasons).

For other responders - Thanks a lot. Yes one mechanic actually told me that I can use a tape to block out the light. If the problem is small then this crude way will work otherwise catalytic converter can wipe out the car and that's it.

by The Absolute Zero Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:17 pm

Here is the update.

The code from the multimeter type instrument was P0135. Sensor 1 Bank 1 (Oh-2 sensor) faulty etc. Got it done and then the code was reset. But the light is back on after a few hours. Googling today morning, found that the sensor replaced was wrong one :-) Went back to mechanic and showed him what I found. He checked his diagrams on his PC and said he can do that again - Monday. Till then just ignore the dash light. Not sure if this solves the problem. The car of course runs great without any problems. Want to fix this for Cat Converter damages that could kill.

BTW the sensors sold in shops - all of them including Autozone, Auto* or whatever, come with junk sockets that may not match your vehicle though their shop computers will tell you they are an "exact" match. So in the last minute had to get another one from another shop.

If the light keeps coming on again after Monday, will probably have to rethink what to do. (planning to sell it anyway for other reasons).

For other responders - Thanks a lot. Yes one mechanic actually told me that I can use a tape to block out the light. If the problem is small then this crude way will work otherwise catalytic converter can wipe out the car and that's it.

by Hellsangel Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:28 pm

The Absolute Zero wrote:Here is the update.

The code from the multimeter type instrument was P0135. Sensor 1 Bank 1 (Oh-2 sensor) faulty etc. Got it done and then the code was reset. But the light is back on after a few hours. Googling today morning, found that the sensor replaced was wrong one :-) Went back to mechanic and showed him what I found. He checked his diagrams on his PC and said he can do that again - Monday. Till then just ignore the dash light. Not sure if this solves the problem. The car of course runs great without any problems. Want to fix this for Cat Converter damages that could kill.

BTW the sensors sold in shops - all of them including Autozone, Auto* or whatever, come with junk sockets that may not match your vehicle though their shop computers will tell you they are an "exact" match. So in the last minute had to get another one from another shop.

If the light keeps coming on again after Monday, will probably have to rethink what to do. (planning to sell it anyway for other reasons).

For other responders - Thanks a lot. Yes one mechanic actually told me that I can use a tape to block out the light. If the problem is small then this crude way will work otherwise catalytic converter can wipe out the car and that's it.

BOGO reply?

by Hellsangel Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:28 pm

The Absolute Zero wrote:Here is the update.

The code from the multimeter type instrument was P0135. Sensor 1 Bank 1 (Oh-2 sensor) faulty etc. Got it done and then the code was reset. But the light is back on after a few hours. Googling today morning, found that the sensor replaced was wrong one :-) Went back to mechanic and showed him what I found. He checked his diagrams on his PC and said he can do that again - Monday. Till then just ignore the dash light. Not sure if this solves the problem. The car of course runs great without any problems. Want to fix this for Cat Converter damages that could kill.

BTW the sensors sold in shops - all of them including Autozone, Auto* or whatever, come with junk sockets that may not match your vehicle though their shop computers will tell you they are an "exact" match. So in the last minute had to get another one from another shop.

If the light keeps coming on again after Monday, will probably have to rethink what to do. (planning to sell it anyway for other reasons).

For other responders - Thanks a lot. Yes one mechanic actually told me that I can use a tape to block out the light. If the problem is small then this crude way will work otherwise catalytic converter can wipe out the car and that's it.

BOGO reply?

by The Absolute Zero Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:32 pm

Not sure why it came three times but I only posted it once. Sorry.

by The Absolute Zero Wed Feb 15, 2012 2:33 pm

Marathadi-Saamiyaar wrote:Then, change your air filter, and perhaps O2 sensor (usually 20 to 25 $) and Autozone will "loan" u the tool. U may have to cut the wires and hence have some "connectors" ($2) handy.Running with lower O2 can cause damage to the catalytic converter, and during one fine long drive (2 to 3,000 miles later) the car will stop in the middle of a desert -

Saamiyaar needs a wake up call. O2 sensor is 90 bucks and upwards.

by Bittu Wed Feb 15, 2012 3:15 pm

A couple of years ago, I bought the O2 sensor for my car online for $35. If you get it from the dealer, it runs $120. I replaced it myself, very easy to do.

by The Absolute Zero Wed Feb 15, 2012 3:35 pm

Bittu wrote:A couple of years ago, I bought the O2 sensor for my car online for $35. If you get it from the dealer, it runs $120. I replaced it myself, very easy to do.

The lowest I could find was $68 but that does not fit becoz of socket problems. Yup may be I shoulda googled but then unless I disconnected the sensor I did not know wha socket it was like. Front sensor replacement is easy but the back one is not; it needs the vehicle to be lifted up. Plus some cars have more than two sensors. I decided that it was not worth the gamble. May be when it dies I will dirty my hands ;-)

by MaxEntropy_Man Wed Feb 15, 2012 7:34 pm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMhp2ShPVQw

by Marathadi-Saamiyaar Thu Feb 16, 2012 1:13 am

The Absolute Zero wrote:
Saamiyaar needs a wake up call. O2 sensor is 90 bucks and upwards.

I bought it for $24 from O' Reilly. I replaced it myself - per my post (Even Pottyman will vouch for my claims).

Go to a junkyard and get it for $10 (and ask him replace it for another $10).

by Guest Thu Feb 16, 2012 3:27 am

Marathadi-Saamiyaar wrote:

I once had a subaru and its oil gauge did not work - always on on empty. TO replace it was $300 (remove the dash etc.).

I went all over the country in that car - no biggie.

Which one did you have - can picture you in an Outback...

by Marathadi-Saamiyaar Thu Feb 16, 2012 12:50 pm

Richard Hed wrote:
Marathadi-Saamiyaar wrote:

I once had a subaru and its oil gauge did not work - always on on empty. TO replace it was $300 (remove the dash etc.).

I went all over the country in that car - no biggie.

Which one did you have - can picture you in an Outback...

It was an old Subaru GL 4wd with 150k+ on it. Been to Seattle, NY, Atlanta, and other in -between cities in that - without the oil gauge.

by The Absolute Zero Tue Feb 21, 2012 10:10 am

This is the update after Monday rework (for anyone interested)

The mechanic took the replaced O2 sensor and put it in the back and put (where he removed the older sensor). The first sensor removed from the front was replaced. The light was still on.

Drove home and took car out again by evening 7 and after a few miles the light is OFF now. This morning it remains off. So it was probably fixed (but if the light comes back on, then we still have a problem).

Anycase, lessons learned: Autozone's testing is pretty good and accurate. The mechanics may be well versed and adept but you should gaurd yourself because they do make mistakes and do not know exactly for each car where is what. Better to know it upfront. And finally the parts sold in any store are not 100% fit. Need to go back and forth several times if the sockets do not fit and connections do not match.

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